We often think of leather purely in relation to our bodies – a garment to wear, an object of desire, a sculptural piece of design. But while encompassing all these things, leather is more than that: leather can be a space too. Historically, leather has created links and communities – from leather bars and kink clubs to emotional and romantic connections.
But as much as putting on a finely-crafted thick leather harness can grant you a passage into physical spaces, it can also open a space within yourself – your own private playground of experiment, fluidity and self-acceptance.
Drawing both from LGBTQI+ leather heritage and the sense of this inner freedom, the new collaborative project by Fleet Ilya and artist Anna Sampson captures queer beauty in leather.
(Photo on the left, from the left: Gii and Munya Versace)
Fleet Ilya is renowned for masterful leatherwork and sculptural pieces which naturally lend themselves to experimentation: from masks to corsets and harnesses, they are designed to be worn creatively.
But the powerful potential of boundary-breaking self-expression has always been at the core of the brand – since its inception at the dark dancefloor two decades ago.
“Ilya and I, now husband and wife, met at weekly party Nag Nag Nag in early 2000, where individuality, subculture and freedom of sexuality thrived. It was this community and celebrated ‘otherness’ that inspired the creation of Fleet Ilya, this story is a reminder of that feeling of liberation through self-expression,” explains Resha Sharma, co-founder of Fleet Ilya. “With Anna Sampson, we wanted to create visual work which is a celebration of the journey towards discovering our individual sexuality, its potential for fluidity, and the right to the feeling of empowerment, which we hope to enable through our pieces”.
(Photo on the left: model Dodo Potato)
Every Polaroid is an edition of one and captures a unique combination of the leather piece and the wearer’s personality.
(Photo above: model Danni Spooner)
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“As our creations explore sexuality which is unique to every individual, it is important to look at perspective through more than one gaze..”
(Photo above: model Gii)
Behind the lens for this series is Anna Sampson, London-based artist and photographer who explores the potential of queer erotic gaze, while playing with representations of the body, gender, and power; and exploring the interplay of fetishism and sedition.
A lot of Anna’s work could be described as erotic – but erotic in a subversive and non-conformist way. “Erotica is so much more than just sexy pictures – it’s a form of power and resistance – and queer gaze is crucial for social and political change,” she says. “Erotic photography and erotica are still dominated by the male heterosexual gaze – a queer gaze offers a different perspective on sexuality”.
With pleasure and politics going hand-in-hand, Anna wanted to create a celebratory space where beauty thrives beyond the binary, size, skin colour and age. “The role of leather is pivotal to the history of the gay liberation movement, so I wanted to keep the symbolic and aesthetic values of leather alive in this story; especially in ode to those under-represented and censored in history, such as dyke, trans(masc), sex workers and leather daddies,” she adds.
(Photo on the left, from the left: models Munya Versace and Gii)
“As our creations explore sexuality which is unique to every individual, it is important to look at perspective through more than one gaze,” Resha adds.
“Diversity should be explored both through the subject and the creative that documents it, with the intention of giving the language of our leather a richer context and speaking to a wider community. There is also something very satisfying and exciting about collaborating and seeing our pieces interpreted in different ways, it brings life to our work”.
(Photo on the right: model Gii)
The collaborators for this shoot were cast from London’s LGBTQI+ community: models Dodo Potato and Gii, model, poet and performer Danni Spooner, Munya Versace who is a gem of London’s drag scene. Their beautiful individual stories come through in body language, poses, expressions and their unique ways to wear leather – a testament to finding power within yourself.
Munya is wearing ZIP BODICE and CUT OUT KNICKERSinSILVER
Danni is wearing a WASPIE DRESS, O-RING PASTIES, POINTED COLLAR and O-RING HIGH CUFFSinBLACK
Dodo is wearing a WEB BRA, FULL ZIP TIERED CORSET, GAUNTLET CUFFS and a D-RING COLLAR in BLACK
Gii is wearing a SKULL MASK, STUDDED CUT OUT POSTURE COLLAR, CUT OUT ZIP CORSET, CUT OUT O-RING KNICKERS, O-RING HIGH CUFFS and THE TRIDENT in BLACK